A visit to the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas

I would never have ventured to a bullfighting ring under normal circumstances. My cousin, Aravind, wanted pictures of bullfighting on my trip to Spain and that got me interested in paying a visit.

The bullfighting ring in Madrid is an area called Ventas, easily accessible by the city's metro. The bullring is referred to as Plaza de Toros. It is an imposing structure with a brick finish. The architectural style is Neo Moorish and is characterised by arches and ceramic inlay work. The bullring was inaugurated in the year 1931 with a charity fight featuring seven matadors.

 

The "stadium" has a capacity to seat almost 25,000 spectators around a 60 metre sandy arena. Bullfights normally happen in the summer months (April to October) - there is a fight every Sunday. And, during the San Isidor festival, there is a fight every day of the week. There are three Matadors each evening, starting with the most experienced and each of them take on two bulls. Fights normally commence at around 6pm and can go on for almost 3 hours.

 

The seats for the bullfighting show are priced based on: how close you are to the fighting area and whether it is in the sun or shade. Ticket prices for a show vary from Euro 4 to 140 depending on where the location of the seat. The royalty of Spain have a box for themselves and the Chairman of the bullring sits to their right in a special enclosure. The Chairman is like an umpire during the fight and he declares the winner at the end of the fight, basing his decision on the reaction of the audience through the fight and particularly, at the end of it.

Bulls charge in through one of three doors to the left of the royal box. Matadors come in from separate doors. Matadors are dressed in colourful outfits which sport golden and silver embroidery. The bull is maimed by the Picadors and the Banderilleros to get it excited. The Matador used his capote to incite the bull further. There is a music band that plays the pasodoble throughout the fight.

The "dugouts" at the bullfight are meant for the matador's team which includes his Manager, Picadors and Banderilleros. Doctors and surgeons who are part of the team are also seated in the "dugout". The Press is seated here. The dugout is separated from the arena by a "tallish" wall to prevent the bull from entering the area. The metallic ropes above the "dugout" are meant to prevent the bull from entering the audience stands.

Bulls used in the fights are specially bred for this purpose in the countryside in Spain. When they are almost five years old, they are brought to the ring. Each bull could weigh 500 - 700 kilograms and look huge - wide and large - alongside a normal human being. Bulls arrive at the ring about 3 - 4 days prior to the fight and are monitored under the watchful eyes of veterinarians who certify the bull fit for a fight. Matadors are assigned bulls by draw of lots. The bull is invariably killed in the fight, with permission from the Chairman of the bullring. Once dead, the animal is taken to the slaughterhouse. The Matador, on the other hand, takes the ear of the bull as the trophy - both of the ears if he had a great bout and sometimes the tail too - rushing out in triumph through the front gates of the Toros.

Matadors train in schools across Spain. Being a matador is no mean task and is highly competitive. Trainees who are unsuccessful at the Matador training schools end up as Picadors or part of the Matador's team. Thought it is fiercely male dominated sports, of late, one does come across female matadors. Conchi Rios is one of them. Matadors tend to get paid around Euro 15,000 per fight. However, it is a risky occupation with the chances of injury and sometimes, even death, being very high. Jose Tomas, a contemporary bullfighter, is like the Sachin Tendulkar of this sport. Matadors come from Spain, Portugal and France. Matadors are known to be a religious and superstitious lot and there is a chapel in the bullring which a matador can visit ahead of the fight.

Bullfighting is governed by many rules. Some people in Spain are ardent followers, while some oppose the sport and many are plain indifferent to it. The guide who took us on a tour of the bullring emphasised the healthy respect the matador has for the bull, the traditions involved and brought out a pretty convincing romantic and philosophical view of the animal vs man confrontation.