Tellicherry (Thalassery in Malayalam) is my father's hometown and a town that I have visited since my childhood. Famous for the three Cs - Cricket (the first cricket match was played by the natives here), Circus (Keeleri Kunhikannan, considered the pioneer of Indian circus hailed from here and so did a good number of circus artistes) and Cakes (the bakery revolution of Kerala was ushered when the first cake was baked here) - the town brings very fond memories of holidays spent with uncles, aunts and cousins in my grandmother's place - located along the Malabar Coast in the state of Kerala. Our locality in the town was dotted by homes of relatives that we usually stayed in while on visits - and there was never a question of checking for convenience, for it was taken for granted and that was the expectation.
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| View of the Arabian Sea from Ayisha Manzil |
So, to stay in a homestay when we were visiting for a niece's wedding was something that was unusual in terms of family protocol. However, we were too drawn to the idea to not make use of this opportunity to savour the experiences at Ayisha Manzil. Situated on a hillock abutting the Arabian Sea, is this quaint and much lived bungalow which is over a hundred years old. The owners have mostly retained the originality and character of the place except for modern comforts like better bathrooms, air conditioning and the addition of a swimming pool.
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| Traditional Kerala architecture with modern enhancements |
It felt like we were coming home after the long 16 hour drive from Chennai. The drive had been uneventful but for a flat tyre detected near Mysore. This is a trip that we have done many times before, trying different routes on previous occasions. The man of the house, Moosa, was expecting us at his much appreciated homestay. Unfortunately, the lady of the house, Faiza, was away for a business engagement. Moosa, a graduate from the Madras Catering College, was a pioneer of the homestay "industry" in God's Own Country, Kerala. His homestay has been popularised largely by word of mouth and many of his guests come back to spend a few days every year or two. During our stay, he regaled us with stories of British aristocracy who came with a fleet of vehicles that carried their luggage, Belgian royalty who stayed over for experiencing a slice of real India and a famous author who penned one of his popular works sitting in one of the rooms.
Moosa makes for an excellent host. Gifted with tremendous energy, innate curiosity and genuine sensitivity, he takes a personal interest in making his guests comfortable, attending to their every need and request. He takes his guests along when he makes a round of the local fish market at the crack of dawn to select the items that will end up on the dining table later in the day. He organises trip to nearby temples for performances of Theyyam that are popular in this locality. He can organise a visit to one of the weaving places that dot Kannur, in the neighbourhood, and you can have access to home furnishings that find big brand buyers from across the world. And, how can one forget the spice markets that have brought fame to Tellicherry with the pricey and aromatic black pepper - an ingredient that in reality, finds little use in traditional Moplah cuisine.
Faiza manages the food at the homestay, its other hallmark. She has a reputation of being an authority on Moplah cuisine, local Muslim fare which carries influences that Arab traders brought to Kerala on a base that is entirely identifiable with the state. You cannot single out a dish that is her trademark - all of them were outstanding. During our stay, we had the good fortune to taste her fish biriyani, arikadukka (mussels wrapped in rice flour), mutta appam (lacy appams topped with an egg), neichoru (ghee rice), meen pathiri (fish stuffed rice pancakes), vattilappam (local caramel custard), mutta sikka (egg coins, literally) to name a few items - all cooked by her team that has obviously been well trained. If you are lucky, you could learn how to cook them in the cooking classes that she conducts for her guests.
Between the two, all I can say is that they know how to get to their guests' hearts.
If you are looking for five star luxury, this is not the place. If you are looking for personalised and top rated service, this is not the place. However, if you are seeking a niche and special experience that will stay with you even after you have left the place, Ayisha Manzil is for you.
Three nights at Ayisha Manzil and I was feeling like this was home. The food and the ambience of the place added to the experience of "being at home". If not this, what else is a homestay supposed to be?
