Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Two States!

It is over twenty years since I married Arjun. We are from two different communities. People often talk about the similarities that exist between our two cultures and are quick to rush to conclusions about things that attract folks from our respective communities to each other. This blog post tries to put things in perspective.

Let me start with the weather. The weather works similarly in the two states. The humid summers and the damp monsoon season are common to both states. And, there is little one can do about the weather but complain which both communities love to do.

Our marriages were always conducted in the evenings and solemnised with the husband promising to take care of the day to day needs (aka food, clothing) of the wife. That did not take away from the fact that the Bengali matrimonial ceremonies are predominantly religious while the Kerala practices are more for social confirmation. Our gold jewelry is famed. In Kerala, the intricate designs are made in gold that is made malleable by the addition of copper while the work from Bengal relies on lac filled metal being crafted to exquisite designs and patterns. White and off-white are considered auspicious colours in our states and often you see women dressed in these colours at religious ceremonies. The matrilineal system empowered women in Kerala and made them owners of land and property. She held the keys to the wealth on paper though in reality the males in the household had a louder voice. In Bengal on the other hand, the woman of the house is likened to Kali and is often the "de facto man of the house" - owning little but controlling all.

Our common love for fish stands out as the most striking similarity. Yes, Kerala and Bengal have long coastlines and access to fish is therefore abundant. However there is one salient difference. Keralites have a preference for sea fish while the Bengali prefers fish from the river or the neighbourhood pukur. The fisherfolk in the Malayalam classic Chemeen went out to fish in the Arabian Sea. The Rani Rashmoni of Dakshineshwar fame belonged to the community of fisherfolk who owned the rights to fishing in the Ganges. That says something for the preferences.

We use a lot of common vegetables - raw banana, banana pith and flower, varieties of gourds - ash, bitter, etc - in our cooking. Though the vegetables may be the same, the medium used for cooking is very different lending our respective cuisines their typical flavours. Coconut oil is the preferred medium for those from Kerala and Mustard oil for those from Bengal. The taste for these cooking medium is acquired and can be a make or break factor in liking the cuisine.

A faith in Communist ideology has long been seen as another common characteristic. Kerala had the first Communist government in the world. And, Bengal was governed by Communists for the longest period in history. Though the ideology has empowered the common man through land reforms and brought in a relatively classless society it has all but wiped out enterprise from both these states. Naxalism found a number of takers in these two states in the 70s. Both states now face backdoor entries of capitalistic ideas that end, more often than not, in spurious organizations and nefarious means of money making. Bandhs and hartals are a regular feature of people's lives in Kerala and Bengal and the Communists having taught the citizens to use this tool effectively in their fight for their rights and against exploitation - real or imagined.

Our bookshelves will feature Marx, Lenin, Tolstoy, Bankim Chandra, Dostoyevsky, Chekov and Sarat Chandra or the works of these great authors will be serialised in our magazines for consumption of the masses. What is amiss is that works of an M T Vasudevan Nair, a Vakkom Basheer or a Thakazhi or a Madhavikutty have not found the same enthusiasm in Bengal as that of Bengali authors in Kerala.

Our films are dark and gloomy and there is a lot of still life in the motion pictures. Subjects like existentialism and the despair in life are often subject matter in our movies. Kurosawa, Scorsese, Cupola, Polanski inspire our directors. Ray is God and Adoor is King. Realism is writ all over our films and there is no concern for entertainment. Bollywood is flippant and shallow.

Tea and our love for the beverage holds us together. Strongly brewed tea at the addas and chaaya kadas inspire us to discourses around the rights and wrongs of everyday life. The portions are small but the brew is potent. Whether served in mud kulhads or in thick glass, tea brings together people from all walks of life.

Football is another common thread that weaves through our communities. The game raises passions though cricket has blunted some of that in recent times. The game is followed keenly in every part of the world. The success of Sourav Ganguly as the skipper of the Indian Cricket team, the "flash in the pan" performances of cricketers from Kerala, the rise of the Kolkata Knightriders team in the IPL and the fall to disgrace of the Kochi Tuskers have all added to the masala around cricket that now has a great following in both states.

So, having said all this, I do not want to stereotype the typical Bengali or Malayalee. Or put them in the same bucket. But I would not miss adding that they are singularly delightful and fantastic in combination! Some examples are below.

http://www.hindu.com/fr/2006/03/17/stories/2006031702150300.htm

http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/brinda-and-prakash-karat-rising-power-couple-of-indian-left/1/194770.html



Sunday, February 2, 2014

East Coast to the West!

The first day of the year, January 1, is actually a great day to embark on a road trip. For many reasons......one, the roads were empty and we got through the otherwise tortuous sections in little time. Second, we got to see what the roads looked like without vehicles. And, third, rather superstitiously, I think we will do more road trips this year!

Our trip took us from the Eastern Coast of India to the West, in one straight line. And, the route we took can be seen in the maps below.

Day 1: Chennai to Hassan

Day 2: Hassan to Shiroor

Day 4: Shiroor to Jog Falls

Day 4: Jog Falls to Kuteeram

Day 5: Nrityagram to Chennai

It's a pleasure driving in most parts of India these days. Roads, especially the National Highways, are in pretty good condition. But then there are stretches that are nerve wracking as you have to deal with bad road conditions, stray cattle and humans darting across busy sections of roads. And, the drive was even more exciting since we had wonderful and varied scenery along most of the route - the majestic Western Ghats, the gentle Arabian Sea - including a beautiful, narrow stretch in Maravanthe along the coast, with a Sauparnika river on one side and the sea on the other (here is a video clip that I found on YouTube - Maravanthe stretch - 0:52 to 1:22), lush green fields and landscape that reminds me of my native place in Kerala with coconut palms.

This was a trip that combined history (Belur and Halebid), nature (Western Ghats, Dakshin and Uttara Kannada districts and Jog Falls), faith (Kollur) and culture (Nrityagram) besides a lot of time for relaxation.

Looking forward to lots more of travel on road in the coming months........

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Rustic luxury!

This January, we started the year with a road trip, heading to the Western coast from the East, where we live. Please read more details of the road trip in my other post.

On our way back, we wanted to spend a day at Nrityagram, the Odissi dance gurukul started by dancing diva Protima Gauri Bedi. And, it became so convenient with the option to stay at Kuteeram, a resort run by the Taj group of hotels, just adjacent to the dance school.

Kuteeram is like no other Taj resort. No plush lobbies, no sanitized interiors, no state of the art designer fittings, no fine dining. None of the intimidating style that one often encounters in a five star hotel. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city, it was a great getaway. We woke to the sounds of birds. And, the air was pristine. There were none of the usual city sounds.

To me, it was truly like being in a home away from home - a sort of rustic, earthy, homely luxury. The beds were crafted from stone. Terracotta and shells were used for light fittings. The tiles in the bathroom seemed like they were leftover from some earlier construction. Coloured glass windows allowed sunlight to filter in. Artifacts made of clay adorned niches and walls in the room. And, the room even had a dome for a roof! Food tasted like it was home cooked. And, the service was so special and personalized. For me it was the ultimate in rustic luxury!

Many years ago, we celebrated the New Year in the company of a gentleman named Gerard Da Cunha, in Goa. He was a friend of a Goan friend of ours. And, we were in Goa for a holiday as were our friends. We were introduced to him across car seats as we drove to the party venue in bumper to bumper traffic. We spoke little through the dance, dinner and party but just as we were saying our goodbyes, he left his visiting card with us. I was thrilled to know that this resort was the handiwork of this gentleman! Wish I had got to know him more........

For more pictures of the resort, go to the link below:
https://www.facebook.com/gangapriya/Kuteeram Resort